By Nate from Martin, TN on October 26, 2015
I have an issue with a chimney liner tee snout not fitting up properly to the tee behind the thimble which is causing draft issues with my wood stove. Can this HomeSaver Flue Goo pre-mixed furnace and refractory cement be used to fill the void around the tee and seal around the snout? It's a 6" tee inside an 8" square masonry chimney.
By Will M. on October 27, 2015
This product is water soluble and subsequently not suitable for this application. I would recommend Rutland Pre-Mixed Black Furnace Cement
for this application. Please note that the gap can be no more than 1/8" for this to work. In addition, please note that the drafting issue is likely not caused by this if the chimney is 8" and unlined.
By Rich from New Mexico on October 12, 2013
I have used 3 separate products now. Two from Rutland, and a third, the latest, from Flue Goo. Each and every one of them thus far has bubbled leaving nearly the entire surface to crack and fall off. I had thought it might be a temperature issue, so I went with the Flue Goo product rated to 3000 degrees. However, the same thing happened. This is being used in a wood fireplace that burns pinon pine. It gets quite hot with this wood. Each time, with each product, the directions were read and followed, despite the fact that they seemed to be intentionally vague. What exactly qualifies as a "small fire"? The product seems to dry rock solid only to have its surface bubble and flake off. I'm nearly as dismayed at the performance of the product as I am at the complete lack of direction given by the manufacturer, even on the internet.
So, the short version of this is, what is the real issue? And can you provide some insight into how to keep it from bubbling, cracking, and flaking off?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on October 14, 2013
Answer:From what you are describing, it sounds like the material is not curing fully during the initial small cure fire, causing the material to expand rapidly when regular use begins. This is causing the flaking and separation you are experiencing. The cure fire should be able to heat the cement for approximately 1 hour at 500 degrees. In my experience, this seems to be what works best to ensure the material is fully cured. Obviously, it is difficult to get the fire to exactly 500 degrees, but an average of +/- 100 will work.
By Larry from Columbus, MS on July 2, 2014
Can this product be used to fill the space between a 6" horizontal black flue pipe and an 8" ID clay pipe that ties into the 8" clay flue pipe going up through the roof?
The filler has to be applied before the furnace is slid in place due to clearance issues once the stove is in its final position, so it can't require heat from the stove to cure the filler material. It also is not an application where 1/4" layers are applied in successive applications.
By Chris C. on July 3, 2014