The chimney liner protects the chimney's masonry from the intense heat produced by wood-burning fireplaces and appliances as well as from the products of combustion. Codes for all modern chimneys require liners for safety. These flexible liners come in various diameters and lengths so that you can find the right product to line an older chimney for the first time or re-line a chimney that requires an updated liner. They are flexible to make insertion easy, even when chimney offsets may make a rigid liner less practical.
Another option would be to cut rebar to length and attach it to the base of the plate using brackets made of U-channel.
By Paul from Brownwood, TX on November 13, 2012
I am trying to re-install my wood burning insert into an existing fireplace and am interested in using the Duraflex system. However, I am unsure of exactly what I need to order. I need to connect to the stove via 8" exhaust, flex up to the top of the firebox and terminate with an anchor plate. I would need about 4 feet of liner.
My questions are:
How to connect the Duraflex to the stove?
How to terminate Duraflex to the anchor plate?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on November 14, 2012
In order to make the sort of connection you require, I would recommend using our Duraliner chimney system, rather than Duraflex. Duraliner will have an anchor plate to attach to the stove, as well as a slip connector assembly that is designed to attach to a chimney anchor plate atop existing masonry.
Do the three (3") intake air tubes need to be piped to the top of the chimney if there is adequate air in the chamber where the insert is installed? This is for product # dv35in.
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on September 24, 2013
No. As long as the exhaust liner is piped to the chimney termination, the intake air tube can be routed just above the damper and can pull air from the chimney flue.
By David from East Berne, NY on May 16, 2014
I am looking to install a wood burning insert into my fireplace. Where the flue empties into the stack, the opening is slightly less than 6 inches. Is it ok to compress the liner slightly to fit through this space?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on May 16, 2014
You can indeed ovalize the liner slightly to allow it to pass through the narrower damper area. It is fairly easy to ovalize the liner by up to 1/2 of an inch. Further ovalization will require greater effort.
By Bill from Indian Lake, NY on September 17, 2014
I have a wood stove in my cellar connected to a chimney with cracks in the tile. It is 19 1/2 feet from the top of the chimney tile to the bottom of the hole in the cellar wall where the stove pipe goes into the wall. The tile inside diameter is 6 5/8 x 11 inches so I am considering a Duraflex 6 inch liner and "T" to make the chimney safe. My questions are:
1. What bears the weight of 20 feet of SS 6" liner after it is placed in side the old chimney tile?
2. What is the outside diameter of the "T" connector ?
By eFireplaceStore on September 17, 2014
In most cases, the weight of the liner is supported by a metal top plate. The tee leg that slides into the chimney thimble can support some weight, but not much. There is a bottom support kit offered by the manufacturer, but most chimneys offer no access to the tee mounting location and such a plate cannot be installed. For additional top support, a pair of flat steel bars can be laid across the top flue tile, prior to installing the top support plate. This will prevent any sagging over time. The outside diameter of the tee is 6 1/8 inches.
By Barry on November 9, 2012
I have a coal burning stove (Harman) that is quite efficient. The chimney was installed with liners but it is 8” x 16” and originally for a wood stove. The Harman coal stove does not heat the chimney enough to produce enough draft. I have to install pipe inside the chimney each year to get the proper draft. Is your stainless steel liner rated for coal exhaust?