
By Richard from Freehold, NJ on January 19, 2013
Hello, i am looking to replace an old Heatilator type firebox which is located in the basement of our home. It was installed in masonry when the home was built. It is located below the fireplace in our living room, it has an offset to the chimney just above the damper, and the firebox itself as well as the secondary steel box are both rotted out from years of use. The terra cotta chimney flue appears to be in great condition. I would like to install myself and then re-brick the entire face of the fireplace and hearth, any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you!
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on January 21, 2013
Answer:
From your description, it sounds like your installation is a bit different from what we normally see. Usually, a manufactured fireplace will vent to a manufactured chimney, rather than into a clay chimney flue. The other installation we see is a fireplace insert, which is slid into the opening, then vented up the clay flue. Older models did not use a metal liner, but current models do.
By your description, it sounds like the manufactured box is encased into the surrounding brick. Is the firebox open on the front or sealed? Does the top of the metal box simply open to the chimney, by means of a rectangular damper? Do you know if there is a complete brick surround behind the firebox? Please advise at your convenience.By Scot from Two Rivers, WI on March 30, 2013
We have a 8" Supervent Chimney on our wood stove.
We had a build up of creosote and it did have a burn in it.
It wasn't a bad fire, but it did get hot. Any way to determine if any damage to the pipe was done?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on April 1, 2013
Answer:
There are two ways to determine the usability of a chimney after a creosote fire. The first is to hire an inspection company to drop a remote camera down the entire length of the chimney to look for any cracks or perforations that resulted from overheating. The second is to physically disassemble the lowest section of chimney to inspect it visually. Again, you will need to look for any perforations or cracks in the system. If you do choose to pursue the second option, I will say that warpage can occur during a chimney fire that will make the sections very difficult to impossible to separate. If this is the case with your chimney, a camera inspection may be needed.By Asher Gelman from Skokie, IL on December 11, 2012
We recently purchased a new home with our first fireplace. My understanding is that it is a gas/wood-burning fireplace. It has a key to control gas flow and a fan button on the fireplace. What is the fan for?
There also appears to be spongy little granules and a fibrous material all around the fake log and grate. What are these? Can they be asbestos?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on December 12, 2012
Answer:
The fan that is installed in the fireplace is designed to circulate the heated air produced by the logs. There is an air space between the inner firebox and the outer wall. The air in this space will become warm when the unit is operating and can be pushed into the room, should you choose to utilize the fan.
The material around the logs is most likely vermiculite and ceramic wool. This vermiculite is designed to allow the gas to flow through to the logs, while also ensuring that all gas released from the burner is completely used. The ceramic wool is a decorative material that glows when heated, giving the look of real embers. There should be no asbestos used in the log set, as this material was discontinued from use by the 1970's.By Paul from Fort Garland, CO on March 31, 2013
I have a Franklin Cast Scandia #315. The casting for the pipe measures inside a tight 9 3/4 x 6 1/4" Do you sell a pipe that reduces from this oval dimension to 6"?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on April 1, 2013
Answer:
Unfortunately, we do not offer an oval adapter that will fit the opening size of your stove. Based on the nonstandard dimensions of your opening, you may need to have an adapter custom fabricated by a sheet metal manufacturer. As more stoves move to a standardized 6" round opening, oval adapters are becoming increasingly difficult to locate.By Steve from Connecticut on November 5, 2012
Should a stainless steel chimney liner and cap be grounded against lightning?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on November 6, 2012
Answer:
While it is not required by national code, it is definitely a good idea to tie a chimney liner into your home's grounding electrode system, especially in areas prone to lightning strikes. You may check with local code enforcement for more information on the matter.By Charlie Harris from Foley, AL on April 23, 2013
Do you sell a FMI 8" x 12" 45 degree elbow?
By Tyler M. - NFI Certified Specialist on April 23, 2013
By tom roahrig from Coshocton, Ohio on November 19, 2012
We are looking to purchase a ventless fireplace to be installed in our living room. My question is one of the people said we did not need to vent our unit at all. The second one said even if it's a ventless we still need a vent just not as thick. Which one is correct?
By Tyler M. - Fireplace Specialist on November 19, 2012
Answer:
If you are interested in a full-bodied vent-free fireplace system (box, burner and logs), then you will not need a vent of any type. Vent-free fireboxes can be framed and installed into a wall or mantel cabinet with no necessary provisions for any pipe. By Howard from Bangor, PA on November 28, 2012
I need to discus my chimney setup.
By Magan B. on November 28, 2012
Answer:
If you need chimney pipe or stove pipe and are not sure exactly what you need, please complete the
Chimney Pipe Design & Quote Form. One of our fireplace specialists will design your chimney installation for you. We will send you a quote via the email that you provide.
Most installation designs and quotes will be sent within 1-2 business days.
By Cindy from Monroe, GA on November 1, 2012
If I cap the bottom of my stove pipe after wood stove removal, will I need to seal the chimney top? Do you have a product that does such?
By Tyler M. - Fireplace Specialist on November 1, 2012
Answer:
It would be ideal for you to seal the chimney top, but we only offer damper-style chimney caps for square/rectangular flues that could achieve this. By John from Milwaukee, WI on March 25, 2013
I'm interested in the FMI 50" Georgian Woodburning Fireplace. I want to install in a basement corner with an 8' ceiling with an existing chimney. If I use the minimum length corner wall of 100" (in the installation instructions), this will require one set of elbow offsets to bring the chimney pipe to the connection point on top of the fireplace. But in the instructions it says I need about 40" of vertical gain to obtain the 23" offset. Does this mean that this unit cannot be installed in a my room?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on March 26, 2013
Answer:
In order to gain the 23 inch offset you require, a pair of 30 degree elbows, a 24 inch, and an 18 inch section of pipe must be used. This will yield 49 1/4 inches of rise. As such, the offset would definitely extend into the room above the basement. If the vent pipe must be offset the 23 inches to fit into the chase that was constructed, the ceiling height would need to be 115 inches for the entire offset to be contained in the basement. However, you could slightly extend the chase in the room above the basement, as most of the offset would occur before the pipe passes into the above area.By Mark from Newton, NJ on February 13, 2013
I am looking at a fireplace that has a slight smoke problem in the house without knowing the dimensions. What would be your best guess for a repair?
By Tyler M. - Fireplace Specialist on February 13, 2013
By Phil on November 9, 2012
Please give me the items with price that I would need to go above the Osburn Stratford fire box for an additional 24’ of stone chimney.
on November 9, 2012
By Dave from San Diego on February 4, 2013
I recently installed a NG outdoor fire pit with lava rock on top. I'm looking for ways to distribute more heat to the folks sitting around the fire ring rather than the heat going straight up. I'm thinking something like a chimney cap that is open mesh on the sides with a cap on top. Thoughts, ideas, solutions?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on February 5, 2013
Answer:
Is the fire pit installed in an open air environment or is it located under a covered porch or patio? If under a porch, use of a ceiling fan is usually the best way to force heat back downwards. Otherwise, the only way to help radiate heat from a fire pit in an open environment would be to fabricate a metal canopy that can help deflect some heat back to the areas around the unit. Unfortunately, gas fire pits often suffer from this scenario and there are few ways to rectify it.