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Hello, i am looking to replace an old Heatilator type firebox which is located in the basement of our home. It was installed in masonry when the home was built. It is located below the fireplace in our living room, it has an offset to the chimney just above the damper, and the firebox itself as well as the secondary steel box are both rotted out from years of use. The terra cotta chimney flue appears to be in great condition. I would like to install myself and then re-brick the entire face of the fireplace and hearth, any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you!
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on January 21, 2013
From your description, it sounds like your installation is a bit different from what we normally see. Usually, a manufactured fireplace will vent to a manufactured chimney, rather than into a clay chimney flue. The other installation we see is a fireplace insert, which is slid into the opening, then vented up the clay flue. Older models did not use a metal liner, but current models do.
By your description, it sounds like the manufactured box is encased into the surrounding brick. Is the firebox open on the front or sealed? Does the top of the metal box simply open to the chimney, by means of a rectangular damper? Do you know if there is a complete brick surround behind the firebox? Please advise at your convenience.
By Scot from Two Rivers, WI on March 30, 2013
We have a 8" Supervent Chimney on our wood stove.
We had a build up of creosote and it did have a burn in it.
It wasn't a bad fire, but it did get hot. Any way to determine if any damage to the pipe was done?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on April 1, 2013
There are two ways to determine the usability of a chimney after a creosote fire. The first is to hire an inspection company to drop a remote camera down the entire length of the chimney to look for any cracks or perforations that resulted from overheating. The second is to physically disassemble the lowest section of chimney to inspect it visually. Again, you will need to look for any perforations or cracks in the system. If you do choose to pursue the second option, I will say that warpage can occur during a chimney fire that will make the sections very difficult to impossible to separate. If this is the case with your chimney, a camera inspection may be needed.
By Joe from Severna Park, MD on September 10, 2014
I have a fireplace insert with co-linear (both 3-inch) venting. It is installed in a masonry fireplace. Recently, due to some damage, we had to tear down the top of the chimney. The fireplace is still in good shape, and I would just like to replace the masonry chimney above the roof line with a metal chimney. I need to buy a chimney pipe that meets code that I can run through the attic and out the roof. The chimney pipe would have to be able to fit the two three-inch flex vents. I would also need a high wind termination cap that can be mounted on the top of the new metal chimney. The whole set-up is vertical without no bends. The fireplace will never be used with wood again. What would you suggest?
By Asher Gelman from Skokie, IL on December 11, 2012
We recently purchased a new home with our first fireplace. My understanding is that it is a gas/wood-burning fireplace. It has a key to control gas flow and a fan button on the fireplace. What is the fan for?
There also appears to be spongy little granules and a fibrous material all around the fake log and grate. What are these? Can they be asbestos?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on December 12, 2012
The fan that is installed in the fireplace is designed to circulate the heated air produced by the logs. There is an air space between the inner firebox and the outer wall. The air in this space will become warm when the unit is operating and can be pushed into the room, should you choose to utilize the fan.
The material around the logs is most likely vermiculite and ceramic wool. This vermiculite is designed to allow the gas to flow through to the logs, while also ensuring that all gas released from the burner is completely used. The ceramic wool is a decorative material that glows when heated, giving the look of real embers. There should be no asbestos used in the log set, as this material was discontinued from use by the 1970's.
By Paul from Fort Garland, CO on March 31, 2013
I have a Franklin Cast Scandia #315. The casting for the pipe measures inside a tight 9 3/4 x 6 1/4" Do you sell a pipe that reduces from this oval dimension to 6"?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on April 1, 2013
Unfortunately, we do not offer an oval adapter that will fit the opening size of your stove. Based on the nonstandard dimensions of your opening, you may need to have an adapter custom fabricated by a sheet metal manufacturer. As more stoves move to a standardized 6" round opening, oval adapters are becoming increasingly difficult to locate.
By Mike from Terre Haute on November 7, 2013
I have a Squire stove insert and the opening on the stove should go from the 3" x 8" to an 8 inch round, but I can't find that part anywhere. Can you help me?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on November 7, 2013
Unfortunately, oval to round adapters are indeed becoming increasingly difficult to find, as less stoves are seen that still use an oval opening. We carry a few generic oval adapters, but they do not fit your sizing requirements. It may be necessary to have a custom adapter fabricated by a local metal shop.
By Steve from Connecticut on November 5, 2012
Should a stainless steel chimney liner and cap be grounded against lightning?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on November 6, 2012
While it is not required by national code, it is definitely a good idea to tie a chimney liner into your home's grounding electrode system, especially in areas prone to lightning strikes. You may check with local code enforcement for more information on the matter.
By Charlie Harris from Foley, AL on April 23, 2013
Do you sell a FMI 8" x 12" 45 degree elbow?
By Tyler M. - NFI Certified Specialist on April 23, 2013
No, the only elbows made for FMI's double wall class A pipe (8" inner diameter and 12 3/8" outer diameter) is a 30-degree elbow. These are sold in sets of two, and you can see the elbow kit here:
By John from Westchester, New York on October 28, 2013
I have been doing a lot of research on the internet and it seems that there is no purpose for a fresh air side vent on the fireplace. It was an old myth that it helped keep smoke out of the house or stopped your fire from taking the air out of the room. Can you please enlighten me on this topic?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on October 29, 2013
A fresh air kit is definitely not intended to prevent smoke rollout. Smoking is a symptom of an improper chimney setup or air leaks in the ceiling of the home and an outside air kit will do nothing to remedy this issue.
However, the kits do a good job of supplying makeup air to the room in a tightly built home. Open faced fireplaces do pull a great deal of dilution air out of the room. In older homes with lots of gaps in the outer envelope, fresh air would pull through the gaps and replace the lost air. This is why some fireplaces would make every room in the home, except for the one the fireplace was located in, feel cooler.
A newer home will be tightly sealed and the fireplace will have no place to pull combustion air from after it has been used up from the house. When open, the combustion air vent will allow outside air to pull in toward the fire and sustain it. Some air vents are designed better than others, so the actually difference they make can vary.
By Rodney from Somerset, KY on December 13, 2014
I have a wood burning fireplace that won't draw and smokes up the room. I want to go with a vented propane log set. Can I just put the log set in since I have an open flu?
By eFireplaceStore on December 15, 2014
Vented logs can indeed be installed in a wood burning fireplace and used with the damper open. However, the drafting issue should be corrected first. If the fireplace is not drawing in a wood burning application, it is unlikely to draw with gas logs either. This can lead to spillage of harmful carbon monoxide into the room. I recommend having a local chimney sweep or NFI technician out to evaluate the draft issue before moving forward.
By Joshua from Johnson, IN on July 11, 2013
I am installing a barrel stove in a pole barn and don't know how to flash the Class A chimney through the metal roof. I've seen the silicone pipe boots on other metal roofs, but I was warned that the chimney exterior temperature may be too hot for this installation. The silicone boots are rated to almost 500 F, which seems fine to me. Does the double wall Class A exterior get that hot?
By Tyler M. - NFI Certified Specialist on July 11, 2013
I have a Vermont Casting Intrepid with 6 inch round pipe at the stove. I need to go through an opening, then up about 18 feet on the outside. I have vinyl siding and do not want to build a chimney around the pipe. I do not want to be looking at a rusty pipe in a few years either. What can I do to avoid this?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on October 10, 2013
For best protection against corrosion, insulated stainless steel class A chimney should be used.
By Mike from Duluth, MN on August 13, 2014
The height of the mesh sides of a rectangular chimney cap: how much higher should this be than the height of the flue pipe above the top of the chimney?
By Chris C. on August 13, 2014
The screen must be at least 5" higher than the tallest flue tile.
By tom roahrig from Coshocton, Ohio on November 19, 2012
We are looking to purchase a ventless fireplace to be installed in our living room. My question is one of the people said we did not need to vent our unit at all. The second one said even if it's a ventless we still need a vent just not as thick. Which one is correct?
By Tyler M. - Fireplace Specialist on November 19, 2012
If you are interested in a full-bodied vent-free fireplace system (box, burner and logs), then you will not need a vent of any type. Vent-free fireboxes can be framed and installed into a wall or mantel cabinet with no necessary provisions for any pipe.
By John from Myrtle Beach, SC on May 24, 2013
Do you sell metal roof flashing for a pitched roof that will work with DuraChimney II 12" chimney cap (12" inner pipe, 15" outer pipe)?
By Tyler M. - NFI Certified Specialist on May 24, 2013
DuraVent does not make a pitched roof flashing for the DuraChimney II pipe, only a flat chase top flashing. Per the manufacturer, you will need to have one field-fabricated.
By Ella from Nashville, TN on October 2, 2013
We are building a house and want a gas fireplace. What are our options for not incurring the expense of a chimney? I am leaning toward direct vent (not vent-less, read too many negatives). The room is on an outside wall but the fireplace will be positioned on wall adjacent to a 2-car garage. Also, if we vent vertically, are there specifications on how tall the vent pipe must be once it extends outside of the roof?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on October 2, 2013
A direct vent fireplace will indeed offer the best versatility for running the vent piping and will have no negative effect on indoor air quality. Direct vent piping can extend as little as 12 inches above the roof line, but it depends primarily on the pitch of the roof the pipe will be protruding through. It is also possible to vent horizontally into the adjacent space and enclose the vent pipe in a sheet rock chase to hide it, if you do not want the chase in the same room.
By Howard from Bangor, PA on November 28, 2012
I need to discus my chimney setup.
By Magan B. on November 28, 2012
If you need chimney pipe or stove pipe and are not sure exactly what you need, please complete the Chimney Pipe Design & Quote Form. One of our fireplace specialists will design your chimney installation for you. We will send you a quote via the email that you provide.
Most installation designs and quotes will be sent within 1-2 business days.
By Julio from San Francisco, California on February 22, 2014
We are renovating our fireplace and just demolished what was existing there. What we are left with is a galvanized pipe with terracotta insert. Can we reuse the galvanized pipe? the terracotta insert? We are on the first floor; the pipe goes through the second floor apartment above us. How do we go about with installing our new fireplace?
We would like a gas stove, something like the first photo I am submitting.
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on February 24, 2014
From the appearance, it looks as if this was originally a masonry chimney and fireplace. At some point, the chimney must have been deemed unstable and was demolished, with the galvanized pipe installed in place of what was there. Depending on the brand and size of the pipe, it may be possible to adapt a gas stove. If not, the entire vent system may need replacement. Please advise if you are able to find any manufacturer or model information stamped into the outer wall of the pipe.
By Connie from Nocona, TX on December 4, 2014
I bought the Napoleon EP13 wood burning fireplace insert and I need to get flexible pipe to run out of an existing fireplace chimney that is about 15 foot long and something to attach it to the insert flue pipe opening and the flexible pipe. What do you recommend?
I purchased an FMI Bungalow 36" wood burning fireplace. I also ordered the FSD-RLT-8DM round top. What do I need to close the top of the double wall pipe before I slide on the top?
By Tyler M. - NFI Certified Specialist on March 7, 2014
No adaptor is needed to connect the RLT-8DM cap to the 8DM pipe length. Simply install the RLT-8DM cap directly on top of the last 8DM pipe length above the roof line at the proper height per code.
By Cindy from Monroe, GA on November 1, 2012
If I cap the bottom of my stove pipe after wood stove removal, will I need to seal the chimney top? Do you have a product that does such?
By Tyler M. - Fireplace Specialist on November 1, 2012
It would be ideal for you to seal the chimney top, but we only offer damper-style chimney caps for square/rectangular flues that could achieve this.
By Larry from Seneca, SC on November 11, 2014
I am installing a DuraVent through the wall chimney system in a metal garage that is insulated and there is a 10" gutter on the outside that I would like to clear. What is the best way to mount the 'T' bracket another 10" away from the wall of the building? This would give me 2" of clearance past the gutter.
By eFireplaceStore on November 11, 2014
Rather than build out from the side of the home with lumber, what seems to work really well is to sink a pair of 4 x 4 treated wood posts into the ground and cut them just high enough for the tee support bracket to mount to. This offers a sturdy mount that does not compromise the appearance of the side of the home. You can then anchor the pipe to the eave as it passes it.
By John from Milwaukee, WI on March 25, 2013
I'm interested in the FMI 50" Georgian Woodburning Fireplace. I want to install in a basement corner with an 8' ceiling with an existing chimney. If I use the minimum length corner wall of 100" (in the installation instructions), this will require one set of elbow offsets to bring the chimney pipe to the connection point on top of the fireplace. But in the instructions it says I need about 40" of vertical gain to obtain the 23" offset. Does this mean that this unit cannot be installed in a my room?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on March 26, 2013
In order to gain the 23 inch offset you require, a pair of 30 degree elbows, a 24 inch, and an 18 inch section of pipe must be used. This will yield 49 1/4 inches of rise. As such, the offset would definitely extend into the room above the basement. If the vent pipe must be offset the 23 inches to fit into the chase that was constructed, the ceiling height would need to be 115 inches for the entire offset to be contained in the basement. However, you could slightly extend the chase in the room above the basement, as most of the offset would occur before the pipe passes into the above area.
By Mark from Newton, NJ on February 13, 2013
I am looking at a fireplace that has a slight smoke problem in the house without knowing the dimensions. What would be your best guess for a repair?
By Tyler M. - Fireplace Specialist on February 13, 2013
We do offer three different sizes of a Smoke Rollout Eliminator, which may solve your problem. The goal of the smoke guard would be to reduce your fireplace opening so that you can achieve a 10 to 1 ratio between your fireplace opening and your chimney flue. That is to say, 10 square inches of fireplace opening to one square inch of flue opening.
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on June 25, 2013
All current models of Majestic fireplace will be listed by any one of several testing agencies. Active agencies include UL, Omni, and PFS.
By Joe from Carrabelle, FL on July 1, 2014
We have installed your 42" builders fireplace and the contractor is not happy with the chimney cap. He feels that it does not sit deep enough into the pipe and he is afraid that it will allow rain to come down the pipe in severe weather.
Check my photos and let me know if the cap is installed correctly and whether you feel that rain will be able to enter the screened area at the bottom.
By eFireplaceStore on July 1, 2014
Looking at the close up photo of the cap mounted, the attachment brackets do appear to be sitting in place properly and the screened area height looks correct. The screened area does have to remain open for adequate cooling air to be drawn into the chimney. Product testing for this item has revealed that only a heavy driving rain will allow some water to make its way down the outer chimney jacket. Even in that case, the amount of water that does get in will not cause any damage.
By Dave from San Diego on February 4, 2013
I recently installed a NG outdoor fire pit with lava rock on top. I'm looking for ways to distribute more heat to the folks sitting around the fire ring rather than the heat going straight up. I'm thinking something like a chimney cap that is open mesh on the sides with a cap on top. Thoughts, ideas, solutions?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on February 5, 2013
Is the fire pit installed in an open air environment or is it located under a covered porch or patio? If under a porch, use of a ceiling fan is usually the best way to force heat back downwards. Otherwise, the only way to help radiate heat from a fire pit in an open environment would be to fabricate a metal canopy that can help deflect some heat back to the areas around the unit. Unfortunately, gas fire pits often suffer from this scenario and there are few ways to rectify it.
By John from Yuma, AZ on December 23, 2014
I am looking for the Aluminum flex pipes and the chimney cap for direct intake and exhaust. I am interested in the the Empire Innsbrook small direct vent fireplace. Do I need to purchase these items separately or is there a package?
Do all FMI fireplaces have to have a damper installed?
By Tyler M. on November 12, 2014
Yes, that is correct. Fortunately, most of our FMI manufactured woodburning fireplaces have a pre-installed damper included.
By Bob from Raleigh, NC on September 24, 2014
I am looking at the Osborn 2200 to put in my house that is under construction. What type of chimney assembly will I need to be code compliant in NC? The chimney will be vented through an empty attic space and out the pitched roof.
By eFireplaceStore on September 24, 2014
The manufacturer requires the use of single or double wall stovepipe within the room, then Class A chimney from the ceiling and on out through the roof. Some areas require that the Class A chimney be triple wall only and that the stovepipe in the room be double wall. I highly recommend consulting your local code office to verify.
By Ted from Ohio on November 23, 2013
What should I use to repair cracks (like mortar joints) in a fireplace?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on November 25, 2013