Empire Fireplaces - When we first started selling Empire fireplaces on Efireplacestore.com, we thought that we had a really good set of fireplaces to offer our valuable customers. Now that we've been selling them for a few years, though, we've had to revise our opinion a little. Empire fireplaces aren't pretty good - they're the best. Empire makes a full lineup of fireplaces and fireplace products including vent-free fireplaces, B-vent, direct vent units, all of the accessories and options, and everything in between. When you look through our complete selection of Empire fireplaces you're sure to find exactly the right unit to fit your needs, and you can rest easy knowing that you got the best deal on the highest-quality products possible.
We have a fireplace model number DVL25FP32N2. We can't start it. Is the pilot light electronic or do we need to light the pilot? Also, it is hooked up to a remote control. Can you help?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on February 10, 2014
This particular model is equipped with a standing pilot assembly. If the pilot is not already stable, you will indeed have to light it before the main burner will operate manually or by the remote. The bottom trim cover must be removed to access the valve on the left side of the unit. The control knob will be labeled off, pilot, and on. Turning the control knob to the pilot position and pushing in, while pushing the spark ignitor, will ignite the pilot assembly. Once the pilot is lit, continue to hold the control knob in for an additional 30 seconds before releasing it. You can then turn the control knob to on and the unit will light. As long as the main rocker switch inside the unit is turned to the remote position, you should then be able to operate the unit from the remote as well.
By Sheridan from KY on March 19, 2013
We have recently had a Model VFP36BP31LP-1 ventless fireplace installed. Quite often, at least 1 out of 4 times it comes on, a roaring occurs that will not stop until we turn even been replaced. What is the source of this roaring, which sounds like a propane torch, and how dangerous is it? What can we do to stop it?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on March 20, 2013
The roaring sound is likely attributed to high gas pressure flowing to the burner or the sound of the gas forcing its way through the burner ports. This is not a dangerous condition, but can cause damage to the gas valve if it continues. When you have had the fireplace worked on, was gas pressure at the valve verified? There are test ports on the unit's gas valve that will allow the technician to take a reading.
By Dean from NY on June 16, 2013
After replacing the thermocouple and thremopile, I can not get the burner to work on my CIDV-30-7 ser # T 03 803625. The switch is fine. What else can I check?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on June 17, 2013
The next step would be to check pressure at the inlet/outlet gas pressure taps on the valve itself. Older valves can become sensitive to gas pressure changes. Incoming manifold pressure should be between 5 and 10.5 inches of W.C. when tested on the inlet pressure tap. If the valve is open, the outlet tap should be reading between 1.7 and 3.5 inches of W.C. for the valve to feed the burner properly. If there is no pressure reading with the valve open and the supply in range, the valve is likely stuck or defective. If you do have pressure on the outlet pressure tap with the valve open, the main burner orifice may be clogged with debris. Removing the main burner tube to expose the orifice and blow it out will be necessary.
By Jim from Sarasota, FL. on January 13, 2013
I own a model # MBC42 fire box. What does the small vent do, that is located in the top L.H. inside corner of the box. I do not have a manual so I do not know if it is to be adjusted or left alone.
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on January 14, 2013
My apologies, but I was unable to find any reference to this vent in the owner's manual for this fireplace. While the unit has knockouts for a gas line on either side of the unit, these are down low inside the box. Would it be possible to email a photo of the vent? Please advise at your convenience.
By James from Philadelphia, PA on May 13, 2014
I have an existing fireplace. My contractor is sending me the dimensions. It will be natural gas. I'm considering this because the house is 80 yrs old and the contractor said there's no guarantee he can get the chimney to vent again. Do I just need a "vent-free fire box"?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on May 13, 2014
From the sounds of your current setup, you need to utilize either a vent free or direct vent fireplace insert. The vent free insert will not need to utilize the chimney and is completely self contained, while a direct vent insert uses a pair of 3 inch aluminum vent tubes to both vent exhaust gases and draw in air for combustion. Once you have the dimensions for the fireplace, I will be happy to suggests inserts that can work for you.
By Craig from Stockbridge, VT on October 18, 2013
What is ISD compared to direct venting?
By Chris on October 18, 2013
ISD refers to a line of vent free gas fireplace inserts by Majestic. These inserts require no venting to the outside. Direct vent requires the use of a co-linear or coaxial pipe system to draw in fresh air for combustion, but also allow combustion by products to be vented to the exterior.
By Gerald from Wamsutter, WY on November 22, 2012
What is a B-vent fire place, and what is a natural-vent fireplace?
By Magan B. on November 23, 2012
B-vent and natural vent fireplaces are the same. For this type of fireplace, the combustion air is drawn from the room and the products of combustion are expelled through the chimney.
I am interested in a 24 inch, natural gas, vent free fireplace. I f i get the one without a remote capability, where can I find the on-off switch?
By eFireplaceStore on January 9, 2015
The on/off control knob is located in the bottom of the unit, just behind the louvers. The louvers themselves tilt forward in order to access the control.
By Don from KY on January 28, 2014
I purchased a new vent free heater model vfd26fm20p-2. When it kicks off it makes a loud popping noise. Is it dangerous?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on January 28, 2014
The sound you are hearing is likely the metal chassis of the unit contracting as it cools down. While it is not hazardous, it can indeed be a nuisance. The issue usually subsides after the unit has been burned in for a few uses and the metal begins to conform to the heating and cooling cycles.
By Larry from Iowa Falls, IA on October 30, 2014
Our pilot light will not stay lit. Is there a way to troubleshoot this?
By eFireplaceStore on October 30, 2014
The most common cause of this issue is a defective thermocouple. With the pilot assembly cool, use a piece of emory cloth to gently polish the thermcouple probe. You can then use compressed air to blow the assembly clean.
If the pilot will still not light, it may need replacement which I will be glad to help you with.
By gene gagne from Middletown, CT on November 15, 2012
What is the measuring criteria?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on November 15, 2012
Generally, we would need to know the available width, height, and depth of the space that you plan on building the fireplace into. This will allow us to suggest a unit with framing dimensions that are close to your needs.
By Dennis from Flushing, MI on June 12, 2014
I have an Empire CIDV-30-7. My pilot won't stay on, when the pilot button is released. What are the millivolt readings I should get on the thermocouple and thermopile?
By Chris C. on June 12, 2014
Per the manufacturer, the thermocouple will have a minimum of 15 millivolts for operation. Anything less then this, clean the pilot orifice first. If still low change the thermocouple. The thermopile will have a minimum of 325 millivolts.
By Tom from Coplat, PA on February 4, 2015
Do you carry the Empire model VFH-33T-1 fireplace?
I have purchased and just had installed a model DVX42FP33CL(N,P)-2.
The front edge of the Top Shield (Index #2 on page 70 of the owner's manual) protrudes out 1/2" from the bottom edge of the 6" of non-combustible material, along the fireplace top, shown in Figure 15 on Page 13. The top shield is not shown in Figure 15 or elsewhere in the manual, except on page 71, Figure 78, and in the Parts View, Page 70. The top edge of the fireplace protrudes 3/4" from the top non-combustible material; the top shield protrudes 1/2".
Question 1. Can we place 1/2- or 3/4-inch non-combustible material directly on top of that portion of the top shield that rests on the top edge of the fireplace?
Question 2. We interpret Figure 3, on Page 8, to allow combustible material as the side surround, 1/2" or 3/4", both left and right, of the fireplace front with no clearance. Is this correct?
on November 9, 2012
The short answer to both your questions is yes. Also, in addition to the non-combustible material sitting directly on the top shield, the small opening at the front of that shield can also be covered. This was a question that came up frequently with the manufacturer and was confirmed.
Please let me know if I can assist you further.
By Twial from USA on November 4, 2012
My fireplace will not come on when I turn up the thermostat. I replaced the thermostat and still it will not come on. It will come on if I switch the button to "On," though.
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on November 5, 2012
Most likely, the fireplace is no longer generating enough voltage to allow the thermostat to function properly. This can be due to a weak thermocouple or thermopile.
Another issue may be the wiring connection at the gas valve itself. You will need to verify that the input wires are secured to the valve properly and that there is not a break in the wiring at any point.