By Brian Melzian from Jamestown, Rhode Island on October 28, 2011
What is the best High Temperature Sealant or Cement that I could use to fill a narrow crack between the metal Top and metal Side of my Wood Stove; and most importantly, will this Sealant or Cement EXPAND and CONTRACT when my Wood Stove heats up and cools down (i.e., Cracks will not form in it over time)?
By Kevin E. on October 31, 2011
Answer:This product is indeed designed to repair wood burning stoves. It will flex with your stove as it expands and contracts.
By Linda from Vine Grove, Ky. on September 11, 2013
We had a wood burning fireplace and we put in ventless gas logs.The surround front facing has a gap all the way around and we get a lot of cold air that comes around it. We used the DAP and it only worked for a short time, then it just cracked and fell apart. What can we use to caulk this that will last? It gets really hot, but not sure how hot it needs to get to cure.
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on September 11, 2013
While the surround likely does not get hot enough for the furnace cement to properly cure, a high temperature RTV could be used. The proper product for your application would be the Rutland High-Temperature RTV Black Silicone Sealant - 10.3 Ounce Cartridge
. This product will cure fully at room temperature and will have the heat resistance to withstand operation of the logs.
By Scott from Rocky Mount, VA on November 26, 2012
I recently installed a new stove pipe onto my wood stove. It was leaking smoke from the pipe so I bought the Rutland Black Furnace Cement in the 10.3 oz cartridge to seal the pipe where the smoke was coming out. The problem I have now is that the cement is putting off smoke of its own with its own unique odor. Is this because it is still curing? Will it stop after a few burns? Should I do something else?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on November 27, 2012
Answer:As long as the product was allowed to dry for approximately 1 hour before being heated, this is indeed part of the normal curing process. The product must reach temperatures approaching 500 degrees before it will fully cure and harden. In the meantime, it can give off some smoke and odors. My recommendation would be to operate the stove on high burn for at least an hour to fully cure the product.
By John from Los Angeles, CA on September 1, 2013
Can I use this to repair a firebox in a Big Green Egg style Kamado?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on September 3, 2013
Answer:This product would be ideal for repairing small cracks in that sort of application.
By Kelly from Denton , NC on April 8, 2014
I applied this last week. I have not cured it yet but it seemed to dry last week but is now moist again after the rain we've had. Will this harden once I heat cure it or do I need to reapply a new coating?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on April 8, 2014
Answer:The product will indeed fully cure and harden once subjected to the 500 degree cure temperature for at least 1 hour. It is always recommended to cure the product as soon after application as possible, as this ensures maximum durability.
By Greg from West Harrison, IN on August 26, 2014
After removing refractory panels to replace the rear one in my prefab wood burning BC42 fireplace, I noticed that both sides of the firebox are missing the center screw that holds the side sheet metal to the floor sheet metal leaving a large gap. No easy way to replace the screw as is outside of box. Can I use this to seal the gap? Can I use this to apply over the crack to extend for another season?
By eFireplaceStore on August 27, 2014
This product can indeed be used to seal the gap between the side and floor metal panels. After application, you should have a fire to allow the product to cure properly.
In regards to patching the panel, I recommend using the Rutland Masonry Fireplace Patch
. The furnace cement does not work well on masonry, but this masonry patch can be used as a temporary fix.
By Steven from Newport, NY on September 6, 2013
I used the 8 oz container of Rutland furnace cement. I used it to patch up some narrow (critical) metal gaps that will not be exposed to heat. Will the cement eventually dry and harden? I ask this question because when I was at a local dealer, I had asked him to read the directions because the print was too small . He told me there was no heat cure required & it would air dry in 24 hours. When reading the directions on the website, it stated it needs heat to cure.This salesman may have messed up my work. I applied it to also fill critical nooks & crannies. It has been in the out-side air for several hours & appears to be drying, but the thicker layers have not cured. Will this stuff get hard with-out heat being applied before October? If not, how do I take it off and out of the crevices?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on September 9, 2013
Answer:Unfortunately, the dealer you worked with misinformed you on this matter. This product will partially dry under atmospheric conditions, but does need heat to full cure. The product must be cured at 500 degrees for 1 hour of time before it will fully set.
Even when partially dried, this material can be difficult to remove. I recommend using a narrow putty knife and flat bladed chisel or screwdriver to remove it. I am not aware of a chemical that can be used to soften the material for ease of removal.
By Marian from Vine Grove, Ky. on September 10, 2013
Can I use this product to seal around an insert face of a gas fire place?
By Collin C. - NFI Master Hearth Professional on September 10, 2013
Answer:This product is best used for wood burning applications only, as it has a high cure temperature of 500 degrees that may not be achieved by a gas insert.